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Spicules

TYPE OF INGREDIENT​
Delivery support system
COMMONLY FOUND IN
facial serums, creams, or exfoliating products

WHAT IS THE BENEFIT OF SPICULES?

They physically disrupt the stratum corneum, creating hundreds of microchannels per square millimeter that remain open for up to 72 hours. This dramatically enhances transdermal delivery.

WHAT ARE SPICULES?

Spicules are microscopic, needle-like silica structures derived from marine or freshwater sponges. They’re roughly 120 microns long and 7 microns wide. In preclinical studies, spicules increased skin penetration of macromolecules by 30- to 70-fold compared to passive diffusion, and outperformed dermaroller microneedling by about 15-fold.

Spicule creams are being used as vehicles to deliver other ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, growth factors, peptides, and exosomes, deeper into the skin than topical application alone could achieve.

One human study showed that a spicule cream with growth factors improved hydration, elasticity, and reduced melanin content over 14 days.

The skin disruption is self-limited. TEWL normalizes, irritation is transient and mild.

However it is important to note limitations. The data is almost entirely preclinical with mouse and porcine skin models. We have no large RCTs in humans.

ARE SPICULES SAFE FOR ALL SKIN TYPES?

Spicules are safe for most skin types when coated and dosed correctly and using a high-quality, cosmetic-grade product.

CONTRAINDICATIONS

Sponge spicules can cause irritant contact dermatitis, so patient selection matters. Caution should be raised when treating patients with Rosacea and Eczema, compromised skin barriers or active broken skin.

References:
  1. Zhang S, Ou H, Liu C, Zhang Y, Mitragotri S, Wang D, Chen M. Skin Delivery of Hydrophilic Biomacromolecules Using Marine Sponge Spicules. Mol Pharm. 2017 Sep 5;14(9):3188-3200. doi: 10.1021/acs.molpharmaceut.7b00468. Epub 2017 Aug 18. PMID: 28763230.
  2. Zhang K, Yu L, Li FR, Li X, Wang Z, Zou X, Zhang C, Lv K, Zhou B, Mitragotri S, Chen M. Topical Application of Exosomes Derived from Human Umbilical Cord Mesenchymal Stem Cells in Combination with Sponge Spicules for Treatment of Photoaging. Int J Nanomedicine. 2020 Apr 23;15:2859-2872. doi: 10.2147/IJN.S249751. PMID: 32368058; PMCID: PMC7185618.

Lily Park, DO, FAAD

Author

Lily Park, DO, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist currently practicing at UC Davis. She completed her dermatology residency at Larkin Hospital in Miami and her internal medicine residency at Henry Ford Health System. She has completed numerous advanced preceptorships with internationally recognized leaders in lasers, cosmetic dermatology, and dermatologic surgery, and will pursue advanced fellowship training in cosmetic dermatology and Mohs surgery at Skin Laser & Surgery Specialists of New Jersey under David J. Goldberg, MD, JD, from 2026–2027.

Dr. Park has authored more than 35 peer-reviewed publications and book chapters and has mentored students and trainees. She presents at dermatology meetings in the U.S. and abroad and actively serves on professional dermatology committees, including those within the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery, the American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery, and the American Academy of Dermatology.

She is board-certified in dermatology, micrographic dermatologic surgery, and internal medicine.