Artemisia species are herbaceous plants found worldwide. Mugwort is a common name for several of the over 500 species of Artemisia. Many of these species are considered invasive weeds due to their ability to quickly occupy large areas and adapt to a multitude of environments.
Extracts and essential oils of mugwort contain high concentrations of sesquiterpenoid lactones (SQLs), flavonoids, coumarins, phenolic acids, sterols and carotenoids. The SQL artemisinin gained notoriety in 2015 after it was found to be effective in the treatment of malaria, earning the discoverer the Nobel Prize in medicine.
When Artemisia vulgaris is fermented by Bacillus species of bacteria, the bacteria produce more valuable peptides and antioxidants and has been shown to inhibit production of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), which break down collagen. This fermentation further enhances the anti-wrinkle/anti-aging potential of mugwort extract.
Mugwort is generally safe in all skin types, as long as individuals do not have a known allergy to the compound.
Mandelic acid is safe for all skin tones and has a low risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It is also well tolerated by sensitive and acne-prone skin due to its gentle exfoliating properties.
Patients with known allergy to mugwort pollen should use caution as mugwort extract could result in allergic contact dermatitis and urticaria. Extracts of herb and essential oil do not typically contain the pollen.
Ekiert, H.; Klimek- Szczykutowicz, M.; Rzepiela, A.; Klin, P.; Szopa, A. (2022) Artemisia Species with High Biological Values as a Potential Source of Medicinal and Cosmetic Raw Materials. Molecules: 27; 6427
Sari DH, Yuniar S, Awalia Nur Fadillah S, Mutiarani A, Kusumawaty D (2022) The effectiveness of mugwort leaf extract and gotu kola leaf extract against acne bacterial activity. ASEAN Journal of Science and Engineering: 249-256