Hydroxypropyl

TYPE OF INGREDIENT​
Stabilizer
COMMONLY FOUND IN
Creams, moisturizers, lotions

WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF HYDROXYPROPYL?

Hydroxypropyl carbohydrates carry many benefits in cosmetic ingredients, mainly for stabilization and solubility. 2-Hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin, for example, has been shown to enhance drug solubility and stability. In hair dyes, hydroxypropyl paraphenylenediamine functions as an oxidative hair dye ingredient. Meanwhile, hydroxypropyl cyclodextrins can be used to increase solubility of active ingredients into lotions and creams.

WHAT IS HYDROXYPROPYL?

Hydroxypropyl are groups on carbohydrates (e.g., hydroxypropyl methylcellulose or hydroxypropyl paraphenylenediamine), which are used in a variety of cosmetic products.

IS HYDROXYPROPYL SAFE FOR ALL SKIN TYPES AND TONES?

Hydroxypropyl carbohydrates are likely safe for all skin types and tones based on available data.  A study on its use in hair dye showed that it was safe for use in hair. However, patients with previous reactions to this extract should be cautious with future use.

CONTRAINDICATIONS

Products containing hydroxypropyl carbohydrates should be used with caution in patients who have had a prior reaction to them.

Sources:
  • Api AM, Belsito D, Biserta S, et al. RIFM fragrance ingredient safety assessment, carbonic acid, 2-hydroxypropyl (1R,2S,5R)-5-methyl-2-(1-methylethyl)cyclohexyl ester, CAS registry number 260781-16-6. Food Chem Toxicol. 2020;146 Suppl 1:111765.
  • Becker LC, Bergfeld WF, Belsito DV, et al. Safety Assessment of Hydroxypropyl Bis(N-Hydroxyethyl-p-Phenylenediamine) HCl as Used in Cosmetics. Int J Toxicol. 2016;35(2 suppl):5S-11S.
  • Dahabra L, Broadberry G, Le Gresley A, Najlah M, Khoder M. Sunscreens Containing Cyclodextrin Inclusion Complexes for Enhanced Efficiency: A Strategy for Skin Cancer Prevention. Molecules. 2021;26(6):1698. Published 2021 Mar 18.
  • Huang PH, Hu SCS, Yen FL, Tseng CH. Improvement of Skin Penetration, Antipollutant Activity and Skin Hydration of 7,3′,4′-Trihydroxyisoflavone Cyclodextrin Inclusion Complex. Pharmaceutics. 2019;11(8):399. Published 2019 Aug 8.
  • Sommer H, Eisenbrand G. A method for the determination of N-nitrosoalkanolamines in cosmetics. Z Lebensm Unters Forsch. 1988;186(3):235-238.

Nishad Sathe, MD

Author

Nishad Sathe is a PGY-3 Internal Medicine/Dermatology resident at the University of Minnesota