Ascorbic acid and L-Ascorbic acid

TYPE OF INGREDIENT

Antioxidant

COMMONLY FOUND IN

Serums

WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF VITAMIN C?

Vitamin C protects against environmental stressors by fighting free radical damage, and improves fine lines and wrinkles by increasing collagen production. Vitamin C also blocks the pathway involved in pigment production, so it can help improve dark spots and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

WHAT IS VITAMIN C?

L-ascorbic acid is the purest and most biologically active form of Vitamin C that is naturally found in the skin. In general, vitamin C is an antioxidant that fights free radical damage from UV sunlight and the environment. By preventing oxidation, it slows down the process of skin aging. It’s also an essential cofactor for enzymes involved in collagen synthesis. In addition, Vitamin C inhibits tyrosinase, which is a rate-limiting enzyme required for the synthesis of melanin.

IS VITAMIN C SAFE FOR ALL SKIN TYPES AND TONES?

Vitamin C is safe for daily use and all skin tones, but can be irritating at high concentrations and if mixed with other skincare acids. It may not be suitable for those with extremely sensitive skin. Vitamin C serums often tend to be oil-based, so for those with oily skin, finding a lighter weight product may be helpful.

CONTRAINDICATIONS

Avoid using Vitamin C with benzoyl peroxide, which can oxidize it and make it ineffective. In addition, avoid using Vitamin C with exfoliants, which can lead to excess skin irritation. Retinol can make Vitamin C more unstable and less likely penetrate the skin, so it’s best to separate the use of these two ingredients.

Sources:

Pinnell SR. Regulation of collagen biosynthesis by ascorbic acid: a review. Yale J Biol Med. 1985 Nov-Dec;58(6):553-9. PMID: 3008449; PMCID: PMC2589959.

Sanadi RM, Deshmukh RS. The effect of Vitamin C on melanin pigmentation – A systematic review. J Oral Maxillofac Pathol. 2020 May-Aug;24(2):374-382. doi: 10.4103/jomfp.JOMFP_207_20. Epub 2020 Sep 9. PMID: 33456250; PMCID: PMC7802860.

National Center for Biotechnology Information (2022). PubChem Compound Summary for CID 54670067, Ascorbic Acid. Retrieved December 30, 2022 from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Ascorbic-Acid.

Toral Vaidya, MD, MPH

Author

Toral Vaidya, MD, MPH, is a dermatology resident physician at Weill Cornell Dermatology in New York City. Her clinical interests include skin of color dermatology, cosmetic dermatology and skincare education. She has been involved with medical writing for the last 10 years.